Tuesday 15 January 2008

Home in Glittering Hong Kong

The other night whilst walking home from Causeway Bay to Wanchai I passed a long row of shops selling trendy clothes and accessories. They were still open. It was midnight on a Monday. I hardly know of any other city in the world where one can find plenty of normal shops still open at midnight.

Hong Kong.

The name in Chinese translates to "fragrant harbour" in English. I always wondered why the word "fragrant" was picked, as Hong Kong does not seem to me to be particularly sweet-smelling, but according to Wikipedia the original area was one where fragrant wood products and fragrant incense were once traded! So much for growing up here!

It feels slightly strange to be home again. In one sense I feel as if I have never left the place at all, but in another it seems as foreign to me as any new city can be. I walk on the streets dodging hundreds of people who seem to all walk into one another in an organised chaotic fashion, I sit in dim sum restaurants hearing conversations the words of which I understand but the substance of which I don't, I wait for my friends in glamorous shopping malls watching every sort of character appear and disappear every two seconds. It seems all so familiar. Yet at times I feel like an external on-looker observing the buzzing city through Alice's amazing looking glass.

I was on the bus one morning. Looking out of the window in the air-conditioned double-decker I could see business people smartly dressed in the latest Armani suits waiting at the crossing (and checking their blackberries). Two people who are probably colleagues heading to the same meeting were silent and not talking to each other. They just stood there side-by-side, expressionless. Perhaps they just had an all-nighter? Further on the road I could see a newspaper hawker sitting on a stool about 10cm away from the pavement. He had probably been sitting there since 7am that morning and would not leave till at least 9pm.

My hairdresser was telling me that afternoon how his assistant often has lunch at 5pm because they are so busy. He himself was off sick the previous day because of his severe sinus. That day he didn't feel too well either but he was back at work, full-swing. In the evening I went to the fresh meat market with my mum. Whilst trying very carefully not to step in any puddle of fish blood as I had my pretty new shoes on, I saw many, many middle-aged butchers, men and women, wearing big black plastic aprons and gloves, smeared with blood, all furiously gutting the fish or chopping up the meat. They had probably worked like this at the stalls since their late teens.

I wouldn't normally say life is hard in Hong Kong, at least not compared to many parts of the world, but these days it struck me as pretty hard. Perhaps it's just a case of my being blind and oblivious to the lives of some who are not lawyers, bankers or accountants. Not that lawyers, bankers or accountants never work hard. They do (I'm tempted to use the word "we"!).

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Qn: Why do people work so hard?

Ans: They need to make a living.

But do people need to work this hard, so hard that one is physically and mentally exhausted, one's health gets compromised, one hardly has time to see his family etc etc?

I can see why in certain circumstances one must work this hard, as otherwise one simply may not be able to feed his family. But I think in the developed world, these cases are rare. My good friend pointed out to me that the gap between the rich and the poor in Hong Kong (and, I'm sure, many other booming cities) is widening, but I have to admit that I was quite shocked to see children living in government flats having the latest mobile phones, trendy clothes and enjoying a huge plasma TV at home. Maybe that is not common, or these families do not represent the poorest.

Nowadays it is a bit of a joke amongst my friends that I'm unemployed. But I did used to work hard. Some would say very hard. Often I was asked why I had to work so hard, to which I would reply with a combination of: (1) well, everyone (in law at least) worked this hard, (2) it is not always like this, and (3) if you want to move up you will need to work this hard. Never did it really occur to me to answer that working very hard (1) paid my bills (which were ever increasing in number and amount), (2) allowed me to have a comfortable (or some would say luxurious) lifestyle (which was ever getting more and more comfortable, or luxurious), and (3) afforded me the potential / dream of acquiring the many, many things I could have in the future, like a nice house, a nice car, a nice school for my children, even more nice holidays... (not that any of these reasons are wrong, or not good in themselves)

I think I was working hard apparently for one set of reasons but the other set of reasons were the real, subtle driving force behind my working hard. So you see, I was rather self-deceived. Or at least not very self-aware.

Is it at all possible to not work so hard and live a simpler and equally vibrant life, but with more time, energy and space? For family, friends, old and new hobbies, mother nature, health, rest, unread books, charitable causes...? Or is this only a luxury for the few with the freedom to choose? Or, do most of us actually have this freedom but somehow just don't see it?



Thursday 10 January 2008

Some Observations about an English Christmas

This past Christmas I had the absolute pleasure and privilege of spending it with Rob and his family in Shropshire in the UK midlands. (Aussies: yes, it is indeed the Shropshire featured in the coffee ad back home!)

I had never spent Christmas with an English family before so I was very excited just thinking about it (and the many sumptuous meals of which I had heard so much)!

While spending time in the lovely house in Shropshire I became quite fascinated by a number of things:

1. The Aga

Apparently this stored-heat stove and cooker is very common in the UK, especially in the countryside. You can use the oven compartments as well as the "hobs". It runs on gas and seems permanently hot. I loved standing next to it warming myself while waiting for the kettle to boil. I discovered that there is also an Aga cookbook!

The Aga was invented by a Swedish physicist in the 1920s.

2. Walks in the countryside in your wellies

I first came across wellies when I was about 4. They were yellow and there was a cartoon figure on each one facing outwards. I wore them to kindergarten during rainy seasons. I had not seen them since my childhood days.

This Christmas I re-discovered the simple joy of marching (!) through the beautiful but often muddy fields wearing your wellies. This time my wellies are lilac, a lovely pair of Hunters from Rob.

3. Brussel sprouts and parsnips

Apparently you either love or hate these. Usually those who love Brussel sprouts hate parsnips and vice versa. There were lengthy negotiations over how many one must have, deals were struck to trade one for another....

I have yet to decide whether I love or hate them.

4. Stockings

Before Christmas arrived Rob kept telling me about the "stockings". I had thought, from memory of watching western cartoons, that stockings are where you put your Christmas presents. It turned out that you deposit the "main" presents under the tree and what you find in stockings are smaller presents which are either more practical things or fun things. I had become quite obsessed with the stocking business by midnight on Christmas Day and I was thrilled to receive my very long stocking from Father Christmas (Americans: read - Santa Claus) stuffed with 15 presents!

5. The turkey

For someone who is quite into food, I was quite embarrassed to find out that the turkey is actually very big compared to a chicken! I was told it weighs at least 4 times as an average chicken. Because of its size, it was able to feed us for many meals. Rob's mum was most talented in making different dishes out of the same bird! Apart from impressing the family with my lack of knowledge on turkeys, I must have left an equally deep impression having devoured a whole huge turkey leg over lunch one day.

6. The Queen's speech

Rob is a big fan of the Queen. Growing up in Hong Kong meant I saw the Queen on notes and coins and official documents, until the handover in 1997. But there was never much attachment or connection with the smiling and kind-looking royalty.

The Queen's speech on Christmas Day used to attract a lot more audience but with apparently half of the adult population in the UK falling asleep by 3pm due to the excessive consumption of food and alcohol (so I read), I doubt many actually watch the speech these days. However, it is part of the Lilwall tradition so we switched on the TV at 2:55pm! In her 50th televised Christmas speech, she spoke about caring for the marginalised in society, which wasn't exactly very cheery but it resonated with the central Christmas message. So I thought she did really well!

If you missed it, you can watch it at www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0nmkYGCljE